Sun Protection for Curly and Coily Hair: Scalp, Parts and Strands
Curly and coily hair gets plenty of advice about moisture and very little about sun. Whether your curls are loose spirals or tight 4C coils, the skin along every part, twist and braid line is exposed, and the sun-protection basics are the same for every curl pattern. Here is what dermatologists say, and what the research does not cover.
Everything cited below was opened and read before we used it. Where a point comes from a dermatologist quoted in a magazine rather than a study, we say so.
Does dense hair protect the scalp?
Partly, and it depends. In a Refinery29 piece on scalp sunscreen, board-certified dermatologist Adeline Kikam says braids and locs give the scalp some cover because of the wide area they tend to cover, but how much varies with density and style. Dr. Kikam adds that sun exposure can happen along partings, hairlines and areas where hair is pulled tighter. Dermatologist Darice Fadeyi says a severe scalp sunburn can cause inflammation and temporary shedding.
We found no study measuring how much any curl pattern shields the scalp, so treat this as expert guidance, not measured fact.
Skin tone, not curl pattern, sets how quickly you burn. The European Code Against Cancer, backed by the International Agency for Research on Cancer, describes skin type as a measure of UV sensitivity. The American Cancer Society adds that melanin absorbs some UV but not all, so people with deeper skin can still get sunburn, skin cancer and premature aging.
Habits that apply to every curl pattern
Use a broad-spectrum, water-resistant sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher, applied about 15 minutes before going out and reapplied every two hours, as the American Academy of Dermatology advises.
Consider a tinted sunscreen with iron oxide. The AAD says it better protects against dark spots because iron oxide blocks visible light.
Wear a hat with an all-around 3-inch brim, per the AAP. Dr. Kikam says hats, scarves and head wraps may suit some people better than sunscreen.
Limit sun between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m., and do not skip cloudy days: the AAP says up to 80 percent of UV rays can pass through clouds.
Scalp sunscreen that works with your style
A dermatologist quoted by UAB Medicine says gel sunscreens work well on hair-covered areas and powders suit the area along a part. The Refinery29 piece adds that a hair sunscreen or heat protectant is not the same as a sunscreen made for scalp skin, and that relying only on hair products leaves the scalp exposed.
Dr. Fadeyi also says sunscreen layered over heavy oil and product build-up loses some effectiveness, and the piece notes that regular use between washes can leave residue that irritates. The practical takeaway is to aim sunscreen at the exposed lines rather than the whole head, and let a hat cover long days.
What sun does to the strand
A 2008 review in Collegium Antropologicum calls excessive sun exposure the most frequent cause of structural damage to the hair shaft, listing dryness, reduced strength, a rougher surface, color loss and brittleness. It says UVB is mainly behind protein loss and UVA behind color change.
The AAD's guidance on Black hair calls it especially fragile, says the ends are the oldest and most fragile part, and recommends conditioner at every wash. It also says braids and cornrows should never be too tight: pain equals damage. No study we found compares UV damage across curl patterns, and the review does not show that any hair product protects the strand.
A wash day after time outdoors
The AAD suggests washing Black hair once a week or every other week to limit product build-up. Nothing below changes the sun guidance; these are simply tools for the routine.
Detangling is a big part of wash day, and the Crown Care Detangling Hair Brush is one option.
Many people wrap their hair at night, and the Silky Long Satin Bonnet is the QOH option.
When to see a doctor
The ACS says many doctors recommend a monthly skin self-exam and that any skin change should be reported to a doctor. The Refinery29 piece notes that hairstylists sometimes spot irregular moles on a client's scalp, so it is worth asking yours to mention anything unusual. The AAD says to see a board-certified dermatologist if you notice any change in the texture or appearance of your hair. A scalp that stays sore, flaky or changes in any way is best checked in person, not diagnosed from an article.
Sources
American Academy of Dermatology: Black hair, Tips for everyday care
AAP HealthyChildren: Sun Safety, Information for Parents About Sunburn and Sunscreen
American Cancer Society: What People of Color Need to Know About Sun Protection and Skin Cancer
European Code Against Cancer (IARC): Are some people at greater risk from the sun?
Refinery29: Everyone's Talking About Scalp Sunscreen, But Is It Right For Black Hair?
UV Damage of the Hair, Collegium Antropologicum 32 (2008) Suppl. 2
This article is for educational purposes only and is not medical advice. It is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any condition. Talk with a qualified healthcare provider about skin or scalp concerns.
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