How Often to Wash Curly and Coily Hair: What Dermatologists Say
How often should you wash curly or coily hair? Two guides from the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) give two different answers: at least every two to three weeks in one, and once a week or every other week in the other. Both describe hair that is more prone to dryness and damage, so the right interval depends on your texture, your products and your scalp rather than on a single number.
This article walks through what each guide says, what a dermatologist-informed wash day looks like, and what the guidance does not settle.
Two dermatologist guides, two different intervals
The AAD's curly hair guide, last updated in June 2022 and reviewed by dermatologists, says thick, curly hair does not need daily washing, or even weekly washing. It recommends washing at least every two to three weeks for optimal scalp and hair health (AAD: 6 curly hair care tips from dermatologists).
The AAD's guide to everyday care for Black hair is more frequent: wash once a week or every other week. Its stated reason is to prevent build-up of hair care products, which can be drying to the hair (AAD: Black hair, tips for everyday care).
Neither page explains why the numbers differ, and we found no explanation on either. A reasonable reading is that these are general ranges for different audiences, not rules, and that the right answer sits somewhere along that range for each person.
What washing too often, and too rarely, can do
The curly hair guide says washing too often can leave curly hair dry, frizzy and hard to manage. It also says curly hair is drier than other hair types and that thick, curly hair is more prone to breakage and dryness.
Going the other way has its own cost. The same page notes that going a long time between washes may cause dandruff from overproduced scalp oil. The Black hair guide points to product build-up as the problem to avoid. So both ends of the range carry a trade-off, which is why a fixed schedule rarely fits everyone.
A wash day, step by step
Putting the two guides together, these are the wash-day habits they describe:
Wash in sections if your hair is long or thick, which the curly hair guide says reduces damage and tangling.
Use a moisturizing shampoo formulated for curly hair.
If you style with gels, oils, creams or pomades, consider a clarifying shampoo before the moisturizing one.
Condition every time you wash. The curly hair guide says to condition all of your hair with a thick conditioner, not just the ends, while the Black hair guide stresses coating the ends, which it calls the oldest and most fragile part of the hair.
Follow with an oil or a leave-in conditioner after conditioning.
If your hair is very dry or hard to detangle before shampooing, the curly hair guide says you can also apply conditioner before washing.
The curly hair guide also suggests looking for conditioners that contain argan oil, glycerin or a fatty alcohol such as cetyl or stearyl alcohol. If those names appear on your label, our ingredient explainers cover glycerin and cetearyl alcohol.
Caring for your scalp when you wash less often
A longer gap between washes makes scalp care matter more. The curly hair guide suggests wearing a shower cap when bathing to preserve your hair between washes, and it covers what to do about dandruff:
Dandruff shampoo can dry out hair, so apply it to the scalp only.
Let it sit for 2 to 10 minutes, or the time on the label, then rinse.
Use a moisturizing shampoo on the rest of your hair.
A dermatologist can prescribe scalp medicine for dandruff that does not respond.
Between washes: detangle gently and protect your hair at night
Because curly hair knots easily, the AAD recommends detangling between washes on wet hair: apply a leave-in conditioner, then work in sections with your fingers, a wide-toothed comb, or a brush designed for curly or coily hair. It advises against brushing dry hair, which can cause breakage and frizz.
If you are looking for a brush to use on damp, conditioned hair, one option from our shop is the Crown Care Detangling Hair Brush.
Night care counts too. The AAD suggests a loose ponytail on top of the head, often called a pineapple, or a loose braid before bed, which preserves curls and reduces friction against the pillowcase that can make hair frizzy and easier to break. The Black hair guide adds a related warning about styles: if braids, cornrows or weaves hurt while being installed, ask for them to be redone, because pain equals damage.
If you prefer to cover your hair at night, one option is the Silky Long Satin Bonnet.
What the guidance does not settle
No single wash schedule has been shown to be right for every curly or coily head. The two AAD pages we reviewed give recommendations without explaining how their specific intervals were chosen, and they do not account for things like how much you sweat, how many styling products you use, or whether you have a scalp condition.
The curly hair guide itself says trial and error is often needed to find the right routine, and not to be discouraged if a product does not work. A practical approach is to start inside the range that fits your hair, then adjust based on how your scalp and strands respond. If you notice persistent flaking, itching, or any change in the texture or appearance of your hair, the AAD recommends seeing a board-certified dermatologist.
Sources
This article is for educational purposes only and is not medical advice. It is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any condition. Talk with a qualified healthcare provider about skin or scalp concerns.
Comments