Cowlicks Explained: Why Hair Grows in Different Directions
A cowlick is a patch of hair that grows in a different direction from the rest of your hair. It is a natural growth pattern, it is harmless, and it is not a sign of damage or of hair loss. A cowlick cannot be removed, but a good cut, a little water and low heat can help you work with it instead of fighting it.
What a cowlick actually is
A cowlick is a section of hair that grows in a different direction than the rest of your hair, according to a medically reviewed overview from Healthline. The most common location is the back of the head near the crown, followed by the front hairline, the nape of the neck and the temples. That change in direction is what makes a cowlick resist a smooth, even finish, and it is why one section can stand up, part or swirl no matter how often you brush it.
Healthline describes a cowlick as completely harmless. It is simply the way the hair in that spot grows, which is also why the same section tends to misbehave again after every wash.
What causes a cowlick
Healthline reports that genetics plays a large role in cowlicks, and that surgery or an injury, such as a hair transplant, can also change the direction hair grows (Healthline).
Scientists have also studied the swirl itself, which is called a hair whorl. A 2003 paper in the journal Genetics by Amar Klar of the National Cancer Institute reported that in a group made up mostly of right-handed people, a counterclockwise whorl was uncommon, at 8.4 percent, while people who were not right-handed showed a random mixture of clockwise and counterclockwise swirls (Genetics, 2003, abstract). The author concluded that handedness and whorl direction develop from a common genetic mechanism.
That conclusion is not settled. Healthline notes that other researchers have found no evidence of an association between whorl direction and handedness. We also did not find a source showing that straight hair has more cowlicks than other textures, so we are not making that claim.
Cowlick or balding?
Because a cowlick can expose the scalp, it is often mistaken for balding. Healthline quotes a stylist who explains the difference this way: a cowlick is a natural hair growth pattern, whereas balding is a loss of hair (Healthline). A cowlick can look thin when it sits close to the scalp or when the hair is fine, even though the hair is all still there.
If you notice hair that is actually falling out, more shedding than usual, or a patch that is getting wider, that is a different question from a cowlick. A dermatologist is the right person to diagnose it.
How to style a cowlick gently
There is no way to get rid of a cowlick, according to Healthline, because the hair grows from that spot in that direction. The goal is to style with it rather than against it. These are the practical tips from the sources we checked:
Wet it first. Healthline suggests wetting the cowlick with water before you style it.
Use the cut and the part. Healthline recommends asking for a textured cut, letting the hair grow longer so its weight helps, or parting long hair on the opposite side for lift. A heavier fringe can also weigh down a cowlick at the front hairline.
Let hair partly air dry. The American Academy of Dermatology advises letting hair partially air dry before you style or comb it, and reducing how many times a week you blow dry (AAD, hair styling without damage).
Keep heat low. The AAD says to limit blow drying, use low or medium heat settings, and use a product that protects hair from heat (AAD, tips for healthy hair).
Go easy with flat irons. The AAD says flat irons should be used on dry hair at a low or medium setting, no more often than every other day.
Handle wet hair as little as possible. The AAD notes that wet hair breaks more easily when combed or brushed, and suggests a wide-tooth comb instead of a brush to detangle wet hair.
It is worth remembering that none of these steps change the direction the hair grows. They only help you style around it with less stress on the hair.
Everyday tools to have on hand
A cowlick is easiest to manage when your tools are gentle and your routine is short. Keep in mind the AAD advice to keep brushing to a minimum, since brushing 100 strokes a day can cause split ends. If you do reach for a brush, a detangling brush like the Crown Care Detangling Hair Brush is one option for working through knots with a light hand.
Many people also like to keep their hair contained overnight. A satin sleep cap such as the Silky Long Satin Bonnet is a simple accessory for that, and it fits into a routine that keeps styling and handling to a minimum.
Sources
This article is for educational purposes only and is not medical advice. It is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any condition. Talk with a qualified healthcare provider about skin or scalp concerns.
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